Isabela Island

The Scenic Arrival

The flight to Isabela is widely considered one of the most scenic in the archipelago. Departing from Baltra, the aircraft heads west, tracing the northern coastline of Santa Cruz. To one side lie the rocky silhouettes of Daphne and Daphne Menor; to the other, the highlands of Santa Cruz rise above the coast (look out for Galapagos Safari Camp!).

As you approach Isabela, a chain of volcanic islets known as Los Cuatro Hermanos (the Four Brothers) comes into view, often dotted with seabirds, iguanas and sea lions.

The final descent crosses the island’s southeastern shoreline, and onto a simple landing strip just outside Puerto Villamil.

Puerto Villamil

Puerto Villamil is one of the Galapagos’ four inhabited ports.

Its long, white-sand beach is home to marine iguanas and shorebirds, while nearby mangroves provide clear waters for snorkelling.

Compared to Puerto Ayora, its infrastructure is more understated, lending the town a slower pace and relaxed atmosphere.

Geology

It’s only as you approach the barren, volcanic coastline of Isabela by air that you get a sense of its extraordinary geology.

Sat close to the Galapagos volcanic hotspot, Isabela is nearly one million years old and one of the youngest islands in the archipelago.

Sierra Negra Volcano: The Hike

“Geology is learned through the soles of your shoes, not the seat of your pants!” – Walter. L. Manger, geologist.

Our guided hike up Sierra Negra follows a 16km (relatively flat) trail to the volcano’s giant caldera. Out of the 6 volcanoes on Isabela, Sierra Negra is the only one that tourists are permitted to access.

The Caldera

The hike begins in humid highland forest before emerging at the edge of the volcano’s crater. Stretching 6 miles / 11 km in diameter, it is the largest caldera in the Galapagos and certainly one of the most active. The floor is covered in dark solidified lava, and from the rim of the crater, expansive views stretch across the highlands and, on clear days, toward neighbouring islands.

Lava Fields

“Delve deeply into the rocks, for truth is hidden there. Take heed to observe carefully the seemingly insignificant things, as each and every phenomenon and event is an integral part of nature’s process.” – Walter. L. Manger

The trail follows the edge of the caldera before veering off into the lunar-like lava fields northeast of the crater. From the end of the lava fields there is an impressive view of Elizabeth Bay.

Sierra Negra Wildlife

This excursion focuses more on the geology of the Galapagos than its wildlife. However, you may see Darwins’ finches, mockingbirds and other birdlife.

The walk takes 5-6 hours in total. Although the incline is gradual, the hike can be strenuous for some due to the heat of the Ecuadorian sun.

With Galapagos Safari Camp this guided hike is a private tour, and so you can always opt to walk just to the crater (a round trip of 3 hours), depending on how you feel at the time.

Las Tintoreras

Just offshore from Puerto Villamil, this cluster of islets is named after the white-tipped reef sharks (“tintoreras”) that rest in its lava channels.

The surrounding waters are rich in marine life, including Galapagos penguins, sea lions, rays, reef sharks and fish.

It is also home to one of the most visible marine iguana breeding colonies in the Galapagos.

Los Tuneles (The Tunnels)

On Isabela’s western coast, lava once flowed into the sea and solidified into a Venice-like labyrinth of arches, bridges and shallow channels.

These semi-submerged formations create one of the most remarkable marine environments in the archipelago. Home to Galapagos penguins, green sea turtles, white-tipped reef sharks, rays, seahorses, and nesting blue-footed boobies above the water.

Los Tuneles can only be accessed by boat, 1-hour from Puerto Villimil. Depending on sea conditions, the snorkeling activity may take place in El Finado, a nearby inlet.

Roca Union

The boat trip to Los Tuneles also swings by Roca Union, an imposing rocky outcrop sat in the ocean that is usually covered in Nazca Boobies.

Los Humedales (The Wetlands)

West of Puerto Villamil lies a protected coastal reserve of mangroves, lagoons, and sandy trails.

This wetlands area supports giant tortoises, marine iguanas, flamingos and numerous shorebirds.

Wall of Tears (Muro de las Lágrimas)

Further along the coastal route stands the Wall of Tears, constructed during the mid-20th century when Isabela served as a penal colony.

Built from volcanic rock under harsh conditions, the wall offers a sobering reminder of a period when the islands were associated with exile rather than exploration.